Why won't my garage door close all the way?
A door that stops an inch or two short, or reverses at the last moment, is usually hitting resistance or a down limit set to how the door used to move. Check the bottom seal for a hardened lip, look for a slab corner that has lifted, sight the tracks for a bent section, then clean both photo eye lenses. Foundation movement is a common cause here, and it racks the opening rather than breaking the door.
Check the seal and the slab before the electronics
A bottom seal that has spent five Texas summers in the sun goes hard and stops squashing, so the last inch of travel meets a rigid lip instead of a soft one. The opener reads that as an obstruction. Run a hand along the seal: cracked, glazed or flattened on one side and it is done. While you are down there, look for a slab corner sitting proud. Concrete that has lifted a quarter of an inch will stop a door dead.
Travel limits drift, and nobody resets them
The down limit was set to the door as it moved on the day the opener went in. Springs relax, cables stretch a little, hinges wear, and the door now sits differently. The limit does not move with it. On most heads that is a screw or a pair of buttons and a two-minute adjustment, but it belongs after the mechanical faults are ruled out rather than instead of them.
When it is the opening, not the door
Richardson sits on Blackland Prairie clay that swells with moisture and shrinks through a dry August. When the slab and jambs move, the opening goes out of square and the door seals on one bottom corner while the other leaves a gap. The City's own foundation guidance covers watering evenly on all sides, keeping downspouts at least three feet out, and watching trees within twenty feet. That is a genuinely different diagnosis from a faulty door.
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